Legendary Duel: Levi's 501® vs 505™ – What Are the Real Differences?

It’s the classic dilemma at the denim section. On one side, the 501® Original, the historic landmark. On the other, the 505™ Regular, the rock icon of the 70s.

At first glance, they are almost identical: straight cut, 5 pockets, red label (Red Tab), and the famous leather patch at the back. Yet, once worn, the feel is different.

So, buttons or zipper? Standard cut or more relaxed? Here is the ultimate guide to finally understand the difference between these two denim heavyweights and choose the one that suits you.

1. The Fly: The fundamental difference

It’s the quickest way to tell them apart, even in the dark.

- The Levi’s 501® carries the brand’s iconic signature: the button fly. It’s a legacy from 1873, a time when the zipper had not yet been invented for clothing. For purists, it’s a mark of authenticity and support (the fly always stays flat).

- The Levi’s 505™ was born in 1967, the summer of the "Summer of Love." It introduced the zipper fly into the classic range. It’s the choice for practicality and speed.

2. The Cut and Comfort at the Thighs

Visually, both offer a "straight" silhouette (Straight Leg), but the fit is not exactly the same.

- The 501® (The Original Fit): It has a classic straight cut from hips to ankles. It sits at the waist. Its cut is structured, sometimes a bit "boxy" at the seat, which gives it that unmistakable vintage look.

- The 505™ (The Regular Fit): It is often seen as the "casual" brother of the 501. It offers a bit more room at the thighs. If you have athletic legs or find the 501 a bit tight when sitting, the 505 will be more comfortable.

model 501 (photo on the left) - model 505 (photo on the right)

3. The History and the Style

The choice between the two is often a matter of "tribe."

Team 501: It’s the jean of pioneers, workers, then Marlon Brando and James Dean. It’s the raw, authentic jean that sometimes needs to be "broken in" to become comfortable.

Team 505: It’s the jean of New York’s counter-culture. It’s the one seen on the cover of the Sticky Fingers album by the Rolling Stones or worn by the Ramones. It’s the rock jean, easy to live in, "put on and go."